Learn An Easy Way To Choose Your Sock Heel Style | Sock Knitting

When working sock knitting patterns, there are a lot of options. You can knit socks on double points, use the magic loop technique, or knit on two circular needles. You can knit one at a time, two at a time, or two at a time with one nested inside the other. There are as many choices in sock knitting as there are in sock yarn!

The heel is a part of your knit sock that takes a lot of wear, and is critical in the comfort and the fit of your sock.

To become a true sock expert we encourage you to try as many sock constructions as you can—and we're here to help you review some of the options! All of the methods we cover today were worked from the bottom up, as if you were working a toe-up sock. However, there are top-down equivalents for all of the techniques; a simple Internet search will turn up all sorts of options.

Afterthought Heel

The afterthought heel allows you to knit the
whole sock as a tube, then work the heel afterward.

Pro: It makes knitting your sock super easy—whether you're working from the toe or from the cuff  90% of your sock will just be knitting without any shaping.

Con: It's not the most comfortable heel, and has a tendency to slip off the foot. A great tutorial from The Yarn Harlot on the afterthought heel, and another one from Knitting Up A Storm.

Traditional Heel Flap 

A sock with a heel flap is the classic knit sock.
You can work a slip stitch pattern on the flap
to make it even more durable.

Pro: Fits well and it's easy to customize and work a pattern on the heel.

Con: If you're working with a self striping yarn the yarn will pool on the heel. Here's a great tutorial from Miriam Felton on creating a better fitting toe-up heel flap, and here's one from Knit Better Socks on how to work a top-down heel flap.

Short-Row Heel 

The short row heel is a quick and easy heel that
doesn't require a gusset. That means it'll probably be faster to knit.
The fit is usually more comfortable than an afterthought heel.

Pro: It's fast and fairly simple to work, there are many variations so you're sure to find a technique that works for you.

Con: It tends to create holes in the heel, and is less sturdy than a heel flap. Here's a detailed tutorial on working a short row heel on a top-down sock from Laura Chau. Here's a no wrap version of the short row heel from Happy Knits.

Fleegle's Heel 

Fleegle's heel is a combination of the
short-row heel and the traditional heel flap.

Pro: Fleegle's heel is more subtle in look than the heel flap and provides a heel without holes.

Con: Following the directions is not for the beginner knitter, we recommend knitting a more traditional sock before trying Fleegle's heel. Here is Fleegle's guide to her toe-up no-flap, no-hassle heel, and here's a guide to working the heel from the top-down by Knitters Brewing Co.

Fish Lips Kiss Heel 

The photo above is a pair of socks using the
Fish Lips Kiss Heel and Cascade Heritage Prints sock yarn.

Pro:  The Fish Lips Kiss Heel has no wraps to pick up and does not use the traditional heel flap and gusset, so it's an easier and quicker heel to complete. There's also no picking up stitches for a gusset, because there's no gusset! So simple. Get the Fish Lips pattern (it's just $1) and see what you think!

Con:  If you have a high arch, you still may need a heel flap to make your sock fit. Also, The Fish Lips Kiss Heel isn't quite as defined of a heel, so with some people may find it slips a bit. 

Now it's time to get knitting—pick out some sock yarn and a Free Pattern, and cast on! For sock yarn, see Cascade Heritage Sock Yarn or HiKoo CoBaSi fingering weight yarn.

If you like watching videos, here is a 10 minute tutorial I did on picking up perfect stitches for the afterthought heel.

P.S. We'd love to hear about your favorite sock heel! Leave a comment below and tell us which you prefer, or if there's a heel technique we forgot.